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Explore the Lost City of Merv | Turkmenistan

The Lost City of Merv in Turkmenistan is a little-known historical gem of Central Asia. Located near the relatively modern town of Mary, Merv was the oldest and most-preserved city along the Silk Road, which makes the journey worth it!

Interior of the Mausoleum of Sultan Sanjar in the lost city of Merv, Turkmenistan
Interior of the Mausoleum of Sultan Sanjar

A Brief History Of Merv

Merv was founded by Alexander the Great to take advantage of the plentiful water in an incredibly useful location between the Afghan highlands and the desert lowlands. It was an important capital city for over 2000 years and became one of the most prominent cities on the Silk Road.

Once known as ‘Queen of The World’ it is now a UNESCO World Heritage site and is one of the most studied archaeological sites in Central Asia. The Persians, Turks, Arabs and Greeks have all had influence here and the evidence of that is plentiful.

Merv was a city that, in her prime as a centre of religious study and trade, would have been ranked alongside Damascus, Cairo and Baghdad as one of the great Islamic cities.

The combination of faiths and ethnicities that lived together in this metropolis would have made it a vibrant, bustling and fascinating city.

In the 8th century, the Abbasid revolution was launched from Merv. It subsequently became the birthplace of the third Muslim Caliphate, which brought a more inclusive, kinder style of rule to the Middle East.

The pinnacle of Merv’s history was a vital seat of learning and the easternmost capital of the Seljuk Empire in the 11th and 12th centuries.

Sadness and brutality came to the city in 1221 when the Mongols devastated the city and its population. It is thought that over a million people were killed over three attacks in that year.

In the 15th century a new city, free of Mongol occupation, was created by the Shah Rukh the leader of the Timurid. Merv enjoyed a brief renaissance as a much smaller and less powerful but more peaceful city.

Unfortunately, history wasn’t kind and various wars continued to destroy the city. In the 18th century Merv fell into ruin and the invading Russians, who arrived in 1885, did nothing to revive the city.

What You Can See At Merv

My feelings about Merv are mixed. The site is undoubtedly full of interest, history and the influences of various fascinating cultures but much of what there is to see has been damaged by war, time and the weather.

It’s the humbling thought that this was once a noisy, colourful and aroma-filled home to over 500,000 people. A city that had been powerful and important enough to be fought over is now gone forever.

One of the most interesting features of Merv for archaeologists and curious tourists is that it is made up of five separate cities from different ages of history. Over aeons of time and several ruling dynasties, Merv was expanded rather than built over and the ruins of buildings artefacts and fortifications are now scattered over a vast area of otherwise barren plains.

Erk Kala – The Earliest Of The Five Separate Cities Of Merv.

The Erk Kala fortress is a vast monument to lost power. It would have served as the centre of life in ancient Merv with the city square secure within the solid walls. It is now just a huge mound of mud brick and sand made smooth by the harsh heat and weather.

The site has archaeological artefacts in abundance and pieces of pottery, material and bone from thousands of years ago can often be found having been recently uncovered by erosion, wind and the footsteps of visitors.

Erk Kala. The centre of the lost city of Merv, Turkmenistan
Erk Kala. the centre of the lost city of Merv

Gyaur-Kala – The Second City Of Merv

This is one of the biggest structures in the city and covers over 300 hectares of land. It is an impressive example of ancient architecture and appears to be a city within a city with towers and entryways on each wall.

Sultan Kala – The Third City Of Merv

This is the medieval area of Merv and is the incarnation of the city which was destroyed in the massacre and devastation wrought by the Mongols in 1221. The ruins are a haunting memorial to the people, nearly a million, who died that year.

Abdullah-Khan Kala – The Fourth City Of Merv

This is the city which marked the re-invention of Merv by the Timurid Empire in the late 14th century. It is 1km south of Sultan Kala.

Bairam Ali Khan Kala -The Last City Of Merv

The newest of the five cities and built to the west of Abdullah-Khan Kala. The ruins are set out in a rectangle and were built in the 18th century and in use until the early 19th century. By the time the Russians arrived in 1885, they were already abandoned, and the bricks were used for new construction by the most recent invaders.

Kharam-Keshk Castle

It doesn’t look much like a castle now and the only indication of its prominence is the elevated position and size. This single-storey mansion-type house was the residence of a powerful Merv family between the 9th and 13th centuries.

Great And Little Kyz-Kala

The Great Kyz Kala is a fortified building that is thought to have been built in the 7th century. Its purpose and use are mysterious, but it is one of the most well-preserved buildings in the city and recent excavations have discovered rooms, flooring and a staircase so it may have been the home of someone very powerful.

The Great Kyz Kala is huge and towers over the visitors gazing up at the unique pattern on its outer walls. It is also considered by experts to be the oldest mudbrick building in the world.

The Little Kyz Kala stands nearby and is, as the name suggests, smaller and much less well-preserved. It is essentially a collection of large edifices standing guard over the desert. It’s only on closer inspection that you realise it was once a man-made structure.

Great Kyz Kala in the lost city of Merv, Turkmenistan
Great Kyz Kala
Little Kyz Kala in the lost city of Merv, Turkmenistan
Little Kyz Kala

Tomb Of Ahmed Sanjar

This impressive 12th-century building is also known as Dar-al-Akhyre which translates as ‘The Other World.’ It stands in the middle of a large plain covered in scrubby, spiky bushes. Its loneliness works well with its sombre reason for existence.

The tomb is a fine example of eastern oriental architecture with pale yellow walls, a domed roof and intricately carved window frames and balconies. The interior is beautifully adorned with a light blue and dark red symmetrical pattern.

Mausoleum of Sultan Sanjar in Merv, Turkmenistan
Mausoleum of Sultan Sanjar

Mausoleum Of Mohammed Ibn Zeid

This building can be found near a heavily damaged section of the defensive walls. Built around the 12th century it is a low, squat building with plain, rough mud brick walls inside. We noticed a tree nearby with scraps of fabric tied to its dead branches which gave the mausoleum an even more eerie feel.

Lost City Of Merv: Travel Essentials

How To Get To Merv

The city of Mary is closest to Merv and is 20 miles away. The vast desert area which the Lost City covers means a car is a good idea if you want to explore more than one area.

  • By road: The journey will take around 5 hours from Ashgabat. If you choose to get a taxi, expect to pay $75. Not so bad if there are 4 of you!
  • By train: If budget matters, the train from Ashgabat to Mary is super cheap at around $8 but you will need to endure a 7-hour commute. Might be an idea to get the overnight sleeper and save on a night’s accommodation.
  • By plane: This is the fastest mode of transport with a 40-minute flight with Turkmenistan Airlines to Mary for around $75.

Best Time To Visit Merv

For the weather, March to early June and October to December, are the most pleasant months to visit the Merv. Summer can reach highs of 50°C so exploring this large site can be near on possible in this heat.

Avoid Sundays as Merv is closed on this day.

Tours Of Merv

Our trip to Turkmenistan and Uzbekistan was organised by Trekkup so the guide came with the trip. This is the easiest way to guarantee knowledge of the lost city of Merv. 

On arrival, we were given some background history on the ancient city before we went to explore. You could ask the team there to give you a tour.

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