5 things to do in Srinagar in 36 hours | Kashmir

by Vanessa Wanders Miles
Colourful Shikaras boats on Nigeen Lake in Srinagar - Wanders Miles

Colourful Shikaras boats on Nigeen Lake

Gained a snapshot of Srinagar by visiting Nigeen and Dal Lake, Mughal gardens and shopping for Kashmiri souvenirs. The city is dubbed ‘Heaven on Earth’ by Kashmiris. Here are my thoughts on the top 5 things to do in Srinagar in our swift 36 hours in the city! 

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About Srinagar

The name Srinagar derives from Sankrit words – Sri meaning Goddess of Wealth and Nagar meaning city. It is commonly known as the ‘City of Wealth’.

Kashmir Valley has been through many religious changes in its time from Hinduism to Buddhism to Islam in 1339 with a string of different monarchs including the Mughal Empire. The rule of the Sikhs was established until the British Raj came to India and Srinagar was considered a princely state in British India. This changed in 1947 when Pakistani tribes invaded, the Maharaja signed an accession and India sent troops in to prevent them from entering Srinagar. In a nutshell,  this has remained the case for the last 70 years.

The question I have been asked about my trip to Kashmir is, did I feel safe? The simple answer is “yes I did feel safe”. The military presence is clear so you would need to expect this but is it threatening to tourists? No, it isn’t! Having said that, you may want to check the current situation before travelling.

Kashmir is around 97% Muslim which was evident as the call to prayer bellowed out of speakers around the city. Living in the UAE, I am used to this but they are the certainly longest ones I have ever heard.


Sleep on a houseboat on Nigeen Lake

If you get the chance, stay on a houseboat in Srinagar, I highly recommend it for a real Kashmiri experience. We stayed on Nigeen Lake, the second biggest after Dal Lake. Such a peaceful place to stay away from the hustle and bustle of the city with a backdrop of Pir Panjal mountain range. The Shankaracharya Temple or Takhate-Suleiman (Throne of Solomon) which dates back to 200BC can be seen on the top of the Shankaracharya Hill on the Zabarwan mountain.

The houseboats are deceivingly huge. Ours was called ‘The Martins’ had 3 big bedrooms with en-suite, a large dining area and lounging area, they are made from wood with ornate designs. The boat has been in the family for 5 generations and looking at the Guest Book, some of the England cricket team stayed on their houseboat with their wives back in 1980 after a tournament. The houseboats are moored on the freshwater lakes which, unfortunately, are a vivid green colour due to pollution, the cute and colourful Shikaras (boats) will ferry you to the nearest Ghat (jetty). You can take a more leisurely ride around the lake in the shikiras.

Houseboats on Nigeen Lake in Srinagar - Wanders Miles

Houseboats on Nigeen Lake in Srinagar

Play in the fountains at Shalimar Bagh Gardens

This stunning Mughal garden is the largest within Srinagar and can be found on the North-Eastern bank of the Dal Lake. Mughal Emperor Jahangir built this in 1619 for his wife Nur Jahan, and blessed the gardens with the name meaning ‘abode to love’ in Sanskrit.

Amongst the 12.4 hectares, there are three terraces of beautifully kept gardens lined with Chinar trees, some are 400 years old. There is Mughal-inspired architecture on the two higher levels and a canal of water down the middle of the whole garden fed by the surrounding mountain ranges and containing 410 fountains where children and tourists play. This beautiful garden costs 200 Rupees to enter!

Play in the fountains at Shalimar Bagh Gardens in Srinagar

Shalimar Bagh Gardens

Wander around Nishat Bagh Gardens

Known as ‘Garden of Bliss’, Nishat Bagh is the second largest Mughal garden in Srinagar with a backdrop of the Zabarwan Mountains on the Eastern side of Dal Lake. Asaf Khan, the brother of Nur Jahan, designed the gardens in 1633 AD. The terraces with steep steps, twelve stunning gardens representing different zodiac signs, and a channel of water down the centre.

You will find photographers wanting to dress you up in traditional dress in both gardens for some rupees to pass their palm. You may get the locals wanting to take a selfie, looks like we had the novelty factor in the end! Seems to be a standard 200 Rupees to enter here too!

Nishat Bagh Gardens in Srinagar

Nishat Bagh Gardens

Go shopping in Polo View Market

You could fill your boots with Kashmiri souvenirs down Polo View Road. It has everything you need from the famous Kashmiri shawls, wooden jewellery boxes, walnut carved products. Papier-mâché is big here as it was a handicraft brought by Muslims in the 15th Century. The products ranging from pen pots, vases, bowls, boxes, wall plates, and Christmas decorations with delicate painted and decorated. Don’t forget to haggle, the starting price is never the finishing price!

READ: Trekking in Tosa Maidan & Greater Lakes, Jammu and Kashmir

Watch the sunset at Pari Mahal

The ‘Angels Abode’ is a 17th Century garden located at the top of the Zabarwan mountains on the South-East side of Dal Lake. The Pari Mahal was built in 1650 AD on a site of a Buddhist Monastery by Mughal Prince Dara Shikoh, the eldest son of Emperor Shah Jahan. With a Mughal garden design, it has seven terraces and the top was used by the Prince to teach astrology.

I’m afraid to say we rushed round this one, not by choice but we can to see the sunset over Lake Dal and the city of Srinagar and time was running out to achieve our goal. Who doesn’t love a sunset, this one didn’t disappoint! The entrance fee costs 200 Rupees and make sure you bring your ID as there are police checks on the way up.

Sunset views from Pari Mahal in Srinagar

Sunset views from Pari Mahal


Visa requirements for India

You would be applying for an Indian tourist visa valid for 60 days (as a UK citizen). It’s a simple online process but beware, there are a lot of questions. If you’ve travelled before, you will need your visa number from your previous trip. Check the Indian Government website for eligibility with your passport. Once you have filled out the form, uploaded the documents, and paid, your visa will arrive within 4 days, usually sooner in my experience.

IMPORTANT TIP: I recommend you DO NOT use any 3rd party visa company. I did this in error once and missed a trip for Diwali, they generally do not respond and are extremely slow in processing your application.

The registration process for Kashmir

There are special requirements are in place for Jammu and Kashmir due to security concerns. If you arrive by air, you will be registered at the airport on arrival. Coming by road, you will need to fill in a registration form at a police checkpoint. The registration process is free, you just need to show your valid passport and visa.


Explore Kashmir tours

My trip was organised by Trekkup flying with Air India from Dubai to Srinagar via Delhi. Thanks to the Alpine Adventurers crew who guided us around the city as well as the mountains!

Where to stay in Srinagar

Staying on a houseboat was an authentic experience but Srinagar has a good range of hotels for all types of travellers.

Travel insurance for Kashmir

Organise travel insurance with Battleface as they cover the most challenging destinations.

If you are looking at World Nomads, your insurance may be void for Kashmir so it is worth checking the current situation.


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