Pashupatinath Temple at Night: Witnessing the Aarati and Cremations in Kathmandu, Nepal

If you’ve ever wondered what makes Pashupatinath Temple at night such an indelible experience, you’re not alone. Many visitors come during the day to see this sacred Hindu site, but after sunset it transforms into something far more powerful.

I went to discover for myself what draws locals and travellers to this prolific UNESCO World Heritage Site in Kathmandu on the banks of the Bagmati River after dusk. From the ritual hum of the Aarati to the soothing glow of the riverbank fires, Pashupatinath at night is a place where faith and life come together.

Before going, I struggled to find reliable information about visiting at night. I wasn’t sure what was allowed as a non-Hindu, or even what I might see. After spending an evening there with a local guide, I discovered an experience unlike any other. This guide is for travellers who want to see the genuine spirit of Pashupatinath, with practical tips on hiring guides, getting there, and making the most of this extraordinary place.

What to see at Pashupatinath Temple at Night

Watch The Aarti Ceremony

The “Aarti” is one of the most important Hindu religious rituals, where devotees move oil lamps in circular motions before the deity as an act of devotion to the Divine. While similar rituals are performed in Varanasi, Aarati only became a regular tradition at Pashupatinath in 2006 and starts around 7 p.m. each evening.

During the light ceremony, followers perform the powerful Tandav dance in honour of Lord Shiva, creating an electric, euphoric atmosphere filled with chants and steady drumbeats.

Witness The Funeral Pyres At Pashupatinath

Across the river, the atmosphere changes completely. On the eastern ghats, life is honoured as devotees bathe in the sacred waters of the Bagmati to cleanse themselves of sin. On the western plateaus, however, families gather to say their final farewells. This is where the cremation rites take place, often within a day of death.

When I visited, there were three cremations taking place at once, their flickering flames reflected in the river below. The bodies are wrapped in white shrouds and carried by close relatives on bamboo stretchers. The family walks around the woodpile three times in a clockwise direction before the eldest son places the flame at the mouth of the deceased, the point from which Hindus believe the soul leaves the body.

Priests chant prayers while the fire crackles and the scent of sandalwood mingles with the smoke drifting across the water. The body is covered with wet straw from the holy river, creating pale plumes that rise into the night. The cremation can last three to four hours, and throughout this time, the family remains close. Seeing several pyres burning side by side reminds us that life and death flow together, just like the river beside them.

See the Funeral Pyres at Pashupatinath

Across the river, the scene changes. On the eastern ghats, life is celebrated — devotees bathe in the holy waters of the Bagmati, washing away their sins. But on the western plateaus, families are saying their final goodbyes. It is here that cremations take place, often just a day after death. The bodies are wrapped in white shrouds and carried by close relatives on bamboo stretchers. The family walks around the woodpile three times clockwise before the eldest son sets the pyre alight by placing the flame at the mouth — where Hindus believe the soul departs the body.

The entire ritual is humbling to witness. The priests chant prayers, the fire crackles, and the air fills with the scent of sandalwood and smoke. The body is covered with wet straw from the holy river, producing thick white plumes that curl upward into the night. The cremation takes three to four hours, and throughout it all, the family stands beside the river, watching with quiet reverence. It is both a confrontation with mortality and an acceptance of it — life and death existing side by side.

Meet the famous sadhu

When I visited Pashupatinath at dusk, many of the Sadhus (holy men) had already retired to their ashrams for the night, but my guide managed to arrange a meeting with one of the more renowned among them. We stepped into a small courtyard where a handful of Sadhus lived, their painted faces glowing faintly under the lamplight. The Sadhu we met had become a holy man at the age of five. He had taken vows of celibacy to devote himself to his God.

The sadhu had grown dreadlocks over two metres long, which he uncoiled from the top of his head, and he playfully smiled as he draped this over my shoulders to demonstrate the shear weight. Many are happy for photographs but expect a small donation of rupees in return, as they rely on gifts from visitors for their daily sustenance. The encounter left me in awe of their discipline and simplicity in how they live.

Pashupatinath at night without a tour

Pashupatinath Temple at Night with a tour

Tours are a great way to get local knowledge about the history and customs. Here are a few options you may wish to consider:

• 3 Hours Night Pashupatinath Aarati Tour
• Spiritual Tour: Pashupatinath Aarati Show From Kathmandu
• Kathmandu: Private City Guided Tour by day (incl. Pashupatinath)

PIN to visit Pashupatinath Temple at night